DRIVEN
SHOOTING

Let us look now at maintained / sustained lead. This is the way I shoot 97% of my clay targets having been coached by such masters of this game as Smoker Smith.  In this method shooting which is very hand-eye, the better exponents can break many targets with an unmounted gun. Basically you insert the barrels with the correct lead established during the mounting process (the move, mount, shoot of Bidwell). One can fire as the gun hits your cheek or for more faint hearted (myself, when not practicing often) stay with it for a moment to confirm the correctness of the sight picture.  (Remember, always focus on the target. The awareness of the gun should only be as a half tone.)

Unfortunately, I find this method impossible for reading the correct line on a curling, dropping, driven pheasant.  My method is this (it takes less time to accomplish that to write!):  Prior to mounting on a really tall overhead bird, I shift my weight to my back foot which gives me the most freedom of movement (this preference to the back foot may in some ways compensate for my own very bad back). I focus my eyes on the pheasants head, ignoring its body and I mount on the head. As in “pull away”, I travel for a distance (varies) with the bird to establish the correct line. I then pull away from the bird and continue with the “found” lead for a moment (I sustain it) to make sure that I like the sight picture. When I am happy with the sight picture, barrel sped has been established during my mounting process. I flip my right wrist to force a good follow through. This is actually all accomplished as one movement but I have broken it down to its components for clarity of explanation.

Some shooters may find “tucking in” at the tail and staying with that before pulling away more to their liking. On a really tall bird, I want to shoot it when it is closest, almost directly over head.  In this instance my weight is firmly on my rear foot and front heel off the ground permitting maximum rearward bend, very necessary for a second shot which is sometimes required.

While waiting for the bird, I hold my face perpendicular to the plane of the barrels and keep it still during the mounting process. The gun must be glued to the face, with your eyes locked over the barrels.  I had a slump a couple of years ago.  When my loader mentioned that I was moving my gun across my face, the slump ended instantly.

On a medium bird - say 25-35 yards up, I prefer to take it as early as feasible.  This allows me

A.    More time for a second shot if it is necessary.

B.    More time to shoot a second bird.

C.    More time to reload.

In this case my weight is on my front foot.

If time permits, change your foot position for a bird best taken as a crosser.