DRIVEN
SHOOTING

HOW TO HIT TALL DRIVE GAME

For the last 40 years, I have shot at every possible chance. For the last 30 years I have shot at least a dozen serious days of driven birds and for the last 10 seasons I have been out on 60 to 80 driven days per season, half the time shooting half the time running the day. During this time I have observed all manners of shots and all types of shooters. And while invariably everyone these days claims to enjoy tall birds, very few can consistently hit them. Those who do have seen the sight picture, which along with barrel speed, is the key to consistency.

First you must understand the mechanics, dynamics, techniques and equipment or you will only imprint and perfect your mistakes.  Practice does make perfect but only if you are practicing correctly.  Otherwise, you are practicing missing.  Remember, if you are having a bad day always return to the fundamentals.

The lead:  Let us start by discussing the difference between a tall bird and an average bird and between a pheasant and a clay and how they affect forward allowance.

Today’s fashion is to shoot tall birds. (For most guns, unfortunately, it is only to shoot at tall birds).  It is the ultimate sport.  I define a tall bird as being between 40 yards high and the limit of shot penetration and prior to pattern dissipation.

The difference between a clay at 50 yards and a pheasant at 50 yards is that (unless sloped down hill to work with gravity) a clays speed is continuously and rapidly diminishing virtually from the moment when it leaves the trap arm.  A pheasant on the other hand is maintaining speed or increasing it.  The line, too, plays a big part but let us not get ahead of ourselves.

Lead is a function of distance, angle and speed.  The easiest way to get a feel for this is at a clay course.  Set up a straight forward 40 to 50 yard crosser, without curve or optical illusion.  Use a soft or medium spring and a 110mm target.  Experiment until you zero in.  We all perceive lead differently and whether one shoots sustained/maintained lead, pull away or swing through/instinctive will all affect this perception.  Let us call the correct lead A.  Now set the same flight path but with a faster spring and a 90mm midi.  To break the target you will probably need 3 or 4 times A.  Not only will you need more lead, but also more follow through, more elegantly referred to as to finish.  I have generally found that birds need a little bit of lead, a lot of lead or a tremendous amount of lead, depending on angle, speed and distance. Angle changes perceived lead, wind affects speed and curl. Tall pheasants need between a lot and a tremendous amount of forward allowance. Remember always: gun movement (barrel speed) kills birds.